Tretinoin Routine for the Korean Skincare Enthusiast
- India
- Jul 10
- 7 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
Hello, my name is India and I am a skincare addict. I love everything about it. From the science behind the ingredients to the process of application and taking a quiet moment to myself. As someone who suffers from melasma, I experienced good results with ingredients such as niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and licorice root extract. However, once I had reached a plateau in improvement, I asked my dermatologist for advice. Her suggestion: Tretinoin. In this post, I will share my journey with Tretinoin, including my initial struggles, the routine that worked for me, and the products I use.
What is Tretinoin?
Tretinoin is a generic name for a medication derivative of vitamin A (retinol). It's FDA approved in its topical form for treating acne, fine wrinkles, skin roughness and hyperpigmentation. (1) It is a stronger form of retinol that is available by prescription only. The side effects of Tretinoin can include dryness and irritation, so it is advised to avoid combining other irritating actives like vitamin c and glycolic acid. (2)
My Experience
A Rough Start
The first time I tried Tretinoin I did it all wrong.
After the very first use my skin was burning, peeling, and horribly irritated!
After reaching out to my dermatologist for help, she suggested I use the "moisturizer sandwich" method (where you apply a moisturizer before AND after you apply the Tretinoin) and eliminating all steps besides cleanser and moisturizer. I followed her directions (as I understood them) and my skin was so irritated I felt like my face was falling off.
I was making three huge mistakes:
I wasn't waiting 30 minutes after applying my moisturizer to apply my Tretinoin
I wasn't using enough moisturizing ingredients for my incredibly dry skin
I was applying it right up to my lips and on my entire nose
I ended up giving up on Tretinoin entirely for almost a year, assuming my skin was too sensitive.
Tretinoin Gets a Second Chance
About a year later, one of my favorite skincare youtubers (James Welsh) started talking about his Tretinoin journey. He had partnered with Dermatica (non-affiliated) so the first prescription was only around $3 and the second was 20% off. It was so cheap I decided to give it one more try, but this time I would arm myself with as much research as I could. For the week I was waiting for my prescription to arrive I watched videos, read articles and research the best was to introduce Tretinoin without ruining your skin. I realized I was coming at it all wrong, and now I want to share my routine and tips with you!
My Routine
I started by using Tretinoin at night every three days. After about 2 weeks I would move up to every other night. If my skin reacted well I would stay here for 2 weeks. The last step is to move to every night.
The Process
Wash face with a gentle cleanser
Apply a moisturizing and calming toner with a makeup eraser
Apply a moisturizing serum
Apply a moisturizer and eye cream
Wait 30 minutes
Spread a pea sized amount of product only in the following locations on my face:
Apply a pea sized amount of Tretinoin and spread over the forehead, cheeks, chin, and sides of the face. Avoid the mouth, sides of the nose and eyes. Wait 10 minutes
Apply a ceramide-rich moisturizer
Sunscreen EVERY MORNING
The Products
Gentle cleanser
Call-out ingredients: 8 types of hyaluronic acids (moisturizing), panthenol and allantoin (moisture, skin barrier)
Experience: Creamy consistency with a light blue color. It has a good lather and lots of foam (while still being very gentle). No scent and a little goes a very long way.
Call-out ingredients: Birch Sap (retains moisture balance), hyaluronic acid (moisturizing) and mugwort (soothing)
Experience: Clear gel consistency with very little foam (although they advertise it foams well?) Almost unnoticeable earthy smell from the mugwort. I use about a quarter size each cleanse.
Moisturizing and Soothing Toner
Call-out ingredients: Squalane (hydrating), hyaluronic Acid (moisturizing) and ceramide NP (moisturizing), white tea leaf (soothing)
Experience: It's like if someone mixed water and fat-free milk together, but in a good way? No scent and very gentle.
Call-out ingredients: panthenol (moisture, skin barrier), hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (moisturizing), squalane (moisturizing), allantoin(moisturizing and soothing), ectoin (moisturizing and soothing), Ceramide NP(moisturizing)
Experience: This is an essence and a toner so it's not going to be as watery as a normal toner. Very moisturizing while being not too heavy. This would be great if you're like me and have naturally dry skin even without Tretinoin.
Call-out ingredients: 5 types of centella asiatica (calming and soothing) and LHA+PHA (gentle exfoliation)
Experience: I know what you're thinking: PHA in a Tretinoin routine? But hear me out: this is formulated so gently that I've put this on a LITERAL open wound and it didn't burn or irritate it at all. (Not a great idea, but the point stands.) It is a watery consistency with no scent, and the pads have two sides: smooth and exfoliating. I think this would be great for people who are purging after starting Tretinoin and need PHA but in the gentlest formulation possible.
Moisturizing Serum
Call-out ingredients: PDRN (elasticity and texture), collagen (moisturizing), and 11 types of hyaluronic acid (moisturizing)
Experience: This is my absolute favorite serum for Tretinoin. The texture is almost like water and the moisturizing effect is immediate. It's a little annoying to use because it's watery but my dry skin loves it. I just gather it in my palm and slap it on.
Call-out ingredients: centella asiatica (calming and soothing)
Experience: With 7 ingredients, it honestly doesn't get any simpler than this serum. It has a watery texture, but not too runny. No scent and absorbs quickly. Great if you just have irritation or redness that needs calmed.
Call-out ingredients: 5 types of ceramides (moisture), panthenol (moisture and skin barrier), squalane (moisture), allantoin (prevents moisture loss), and polyglucuronic acid (fermented and moisturizing)
Experience: This is my guilty pleasure. It's so easy to use, has a lovely fine mist, no scent, and gives your skin a healthy glow right away.
Moisturizer
Call-out ingredients: Multiple ceramides (moisturizing), cholesterol (moisture barrier), and fatty acids (calming and moisturizing).
Experience: Thicker in consistency, but unlike a lot of other ceramide-heavy creams, it doesn't feel suffocating on the skin. I use it on my Tretinoin nights and it's great for preventing dryness and irritation.
Call-out ingredients: 4 types of ceramides (moisturizing, skin barrier, soothing), 7 types of Hyaluronic acids (moisturizing), guaiazulene (skin barrier)
Experience: It's a bit thick at the start but once it's rubbed in it absorbs well and doesn't feel greasy. It has more of an occlusive feel than the Aestura cream, so it's nice to put over a really moisturizing serum to lock it all in. This one is also great for Tretinoin nights.
Eye Cream
This step is kind of superfluous to be honest, but I enjoy the experience of skincare so I like to include all the steps.
Call-out ingredients: collagen (moisturizing, temporary plumping), four types of retinol derivatives (slow aging), panthenol and allantoin (moisture, skin barrier)
Experience: Since you don't want to put Tretinoin around your eyes, I like to use this eye cream to still get the effects of retinol for my under eyes, but in a much gentler format. You'd never know this contains actives, it just feels like a nice thick eye cream but it's super easy to spread and absorb. Keep in mind though, Tretinoin is a much stronger retinol derivative than what's in this eye cream, so don't expect the same results in the same timeframe.
Sunscreen
Korean sunscreen has the best formulas available on the market. Here are some of my favorites:
Call-out ingredients: centella asiatica (calming), panthenol and allantoin (moisture, skin barrier)
Experience: It has a green tint that helps to alleviate the appearance of redness, and it has a tone-up effect as well. If you are worried about a bit of a white cast this is not for you. Since I have a lot of melasma and redness, my face looks much darker than my neck. This makes my neck and face closer to the same color. The consistency is a little on the drier side, so I moisturize well before use, but I like that it doesn't leave me too shiny. Dasique's green tone-up sun cream is similar but much more moisturizing and shiny.
Call-out ingredients: collagen (moisturizing, temporary plumping), and 12 peptides (skin repair)
Experience: It's one of the most lightweight sun creams I've ever used. The texture is essence-like, lightweight, and moisturizing. No white cast at all, and something about the smell of it makes me feel like I'm in a spa.
Call-out ingredients: lotus (moisturizing), and thanaka extracts (soothing)
Experience: This was one of the first Korean sunscreens I ever used, and I fell in love! It's light like an essence but not too runny, and a glowy finish. This was my go-to for years and would recommend it to anyone.
Call-out ingredients: centella asiatica (soothing), panthenol (moisture, skin barrier), ceramide NP (moisture barrier) and niacinamide (brightening)
Experience: This was a fancy sunscreen I got as a free gift with purchase. At first I wasn't sure I'd like it because my skin has more redness so I usually go to green color-correcting. I was pleasantly surprised to find the pink helped with dark spots! So since I have melasma it helped brighten and even out my skin tone. The formula feels like a light moisturizer and has a glowy finish.
My Skin's Reaction
It's still too early in my journey to post amazing transformation photos, but I can tell you:
I have not experienced a single day of irritation since starting my Tretinoin.
As someone with dry and sensitive skin, who thought their skin just couldn't take it, I'm confident this routine would help a lot of people starting their Tretinoin journey. Give it a try and let me know how it works for you! :)
1. Yoham AL, Casadesus D. Tretinoin. [Updated 2023 Mar 27]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2025 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK557478/
2. Professional, C. C. M. (n.d.). Retinol. Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23293-retinol#treatment-details